The fashion world has been in flux for many years, but few have left a stronger impression than “the architect of fashion,” Phoebe Philo. Philo has had a profound influence on the industry with her tenure at one of the most iconic luxury fashion houses, Celine. This article will explore her famed career, the impact of her designs, and the power of her legacy.
1. Unveiling the Artistry of Phoebe Philo
Phoebe Philo’s illustrious fashion career began in 1996 when she joined Chloé in Paris and she has since become a celebrated designer hailed for her minimalist yet chic brand of fashion. Philo understands the art of mixing classic silhouettes with modern influences to create chic historic looks that are simultaneously timeless and contemporary. From her ingenious prints and delicate fabric play to luxurious fabrics and immaculate tailoring, she celebrates the effortless beauty of every woman.
- Fabric Play
- Luxurious Fabrics
- Impeccable Tailoring
Prints – Her prints often have a symbolically meaningful base; the Egyptian eye and big cats are staples in the Phoebe Philo repertoire. Chaussures often feature a signature calligraphy print, while runway gowns feature cleverly used florals.
Fabric Play – She is renowned for dreaming up fabric combinations that add loads of texture and visual appeal to her garments. She often opts for opulent combinations, such as pairing soft lace tulle with organza silk or delicate embroidery against delicate wool.
Luxurious Fabrics – All her garments feature some of the most luxurious fabrics available. From high-end wool to lace, tulle, and silk, all her garments are loaded with quality fabric. Not only do these fabrics make her clothes look chic, but they are also extremely comfortable.
Impeccable Tailoring – Her garments are always impeccably tailored and her attention to detail is unmatched. Every stitch, every drape, every pocket placement is seemingly exacted to the millimeter. This attention to detail gives all of her designs the wow factor.
2. Cucculelli Shaheen: the Revolutionary Transformation of Celine
Since taking over the role of creative director in 2018, designer Hedi Slimane has implemented a full-blown relaunch of Celine. Everything from the logo to the runway, Slimane has inflected his dramatic vision on the iconic brand in an effervescent yet transformative manner. His 2020 Spring/Summer Collection, aptly named Cucculelli Shaheen, is no exception and serves to further embrace Celine’s new direction.
The menswear-inspired collection is a far-cry from the classic femininity of Phoebe Philo’s era. From ankle-length sack dresses to full-length tweed coats, the pieces emphasize a modern take on androgynous dressing. Even evening wear, such as the haute couture-inspired black lace dress, feels as if designed for a more masculine form.
- Statement Blazers & Suit Jackets: Taking a page from menswear history, Slimane has given the staple blazer a modern and empowering upgrade with heavy satin fabric, oversized silhouettes and boxy structures.
- City-Ready Dresses: Simple pieces such as the copper sequin dress, are the perfect representation of the assertive attitude that characterizes his vision. Easy to slip on and eminently suitable for the commute, this collection has the urban woman in mind.
- Imaginative Accessories: Black swimming goggles, nose clips and vintage cowboy hats round off the collection with a nod to off-kilter chic. Slimane’s love of androgyny lies at the heart of each individual piece, adding a tinge of drama to the accessories.
Undoubtedly, the French fashion house has changed since Slimane’s reign. Cucculelli Shaheen, as with all the designer’s works, is firm in its rejection of trends and conventions. He creates for a purpose — to create the new, not to regurgitate the old. Every item stands as a testament to the evolution he inspires.
3. Reframing the Female Form with Timeless Luxury
High fashion has long been lauded for its ability to reframe notions of beauty and inject new life into its iterations of female form. With this in mind, timeless luxury is the perfect muse to inspire new perspectives on classic cuts, silhouettes, and color palettes.
At the forefront of this contemporary reimagination of female fashion stands renowned fashion designer and couturiere, Mona-Louise. For Mona-Louise, her designs are a testament to modernity, elegance and sophistication. Her pieces are designed to celebrate the female form in its purest and most timeless form. From graceful layers to delicately cut hemlines, her collections are an exploration of female beauty and grace.
Each of Mona-Louise’s collections pushes the boundaries of traditional design, infusing her signature vision of timeless luxury into new and versatile cuts and shapes. Consequently, her curves, lines, and motifs create a dynamism that is not only chic but also captivating.
Mona-Louise’s goal is to create a unique journey of beauty for her consumers. Her latest collection features a range of designs that are crafted to elicit an emotional reaction—from sleek minimalism to opulent florals and prints. The collection also features classic materials such as silk and velvet, while embracing modern fabrications.
Indeed, Mona-Louise’s designs are transforming the way the female form is perceived in fashion. Through celebrating timeless luxury, she is able to provide her customers with a stunning range of pieces that celebrate femininity and sophistication.
4. Celebrating the Lasting Legacy of Phoebe Philo’s Tenure at Celine
After a decade of highly acclaimed and hugely popular collections, Phoebe Philo’s tenure at Celine officially came to an end this year. Whilst no creative could fill the void left by her departure, it is important to celebrate the incredibly lasting impact her work had on the fashion industry.
The Paris-born designer quickly gained international fame for her modern and effortless style that moved away from the typical ‘luxury’ design. Taking a break from Celine for a few years, Philo returned in 2008 and since then became something of a figurehead, championing both minimalism and femininity.
In a time where trends change faster than ever before, her garments are timeless and stylish. Take a look through the decade of collections and you can see fundamental pieces that felt fresh and classic then, and continue to be a go-to staple now. It is no surprise then, that many celebrated Philo’s departure with a sense of melancholy. How can you ever really replace a visionary like her?
Pheobe Philo’s pieces are adored worldwide and seen on countless celebrities. Her influence is evident in many designer collections and her fans can find subtle nods to her exceptional style in many high-street stores.
Whilst an exciting future awaits us, the legacy of Phoebe Philo’s creative vision and modern aesthetic will remain within the fashion industry for a long time to come! Here are some of the ways that her work has been celebrated:
- Tributes from the Fashion Elite – Notable designers and figures from the industry publicly praised Philo’s work following her departure.
- Influence on High Street Stores – Many high-street stores adopted Philo’s aesthetics into their designs, providing a more economical approach to her minimalism.
- Interactive Exhibitions – An interactive exhibition based around Philo’s work was held in Paris earlier this year, allowing people to explore the historical Celine archives.
- Multimedia Pieces – Numerous articles, documentaries and music videos have been created in her honour across the decade.
Phoebe Philo was a true auteur of fashion. During her time as the Creative Director of Celine, her designs pushed the fashion industry to its limits and laid the foundation for many of today’s trendsetting styles. As her legacy continues to inspire and influence designers across the world, we can truly appreciate the impact of Philo’s life of work at Celine.